Paint Stripping Methods – Pros and Cons

There are many methods of stripping paint from wood surfaces, and each has it’s own set of issues. When choosing a paint stripping method, it’s important to be mindful of the problems that may occur.

Here is a summary of various stripping methods and what you need to look out for when you choose a method to strip paint.

• Caustic or sodium hydroxide liquid chemicals – These strippers can work in 10 minutes or up to several hours, depending on the chemical and thickness of the paint. They work best on carved and detailed surfaces. However, they are drippy and suitable only for horizontal surfaces. For the worker, skin and inhalation protection are critical. Moisture and residue are the main downsides for the wood itself. After the paint and stripper have separated from the wood and are scraped off, liquid neutralizer must be applied. At times, the chemicals and moisture are drawn deep into the wood. When this happens, the remaining salts seep out after the new paint has dried and can break down the new paint layers. In addition, the process can discolor the wood despite rinsing and several hours of drying.

• Solvents – Until this decade, 75% of paint stripping was done using the most common of these strippers – methylene chloride. The thicker gel works within minutes and sticks well on
• vertical surfaces. However, proper ventilation is critical. The fumes can be carcinogenic and fatal. The set up, waste containment, clean up, and drying are critical and time-consuming.
• “Green” strippers – With the focus on our environment, these strippers are rising in popularity, especially with DIYers. They are much more user and environmentally friendly. Their downside is that several applications may be needed to thoroughly remove all the layers of paint. As with other chemical strippers, the liquid must be thick enough to prevent dripping when applied on vertical surfaces. As with all chemical strippers, the set up, waste containment, clean up and drying are time-consuming.
• Steam – Using hand-held steamers or professional or home-built steam boxes is a relatively new method for paint removal. Paint and putty waste is easier to contain, but steaming, scraping and drying process is days. Using steam on thick painted or varnished wood often raises the grain on the wood. The old “dead, gray wood” feathers up. To remove this loose wood, deeper scraping or sanding is needed; more wood is damaged and removed. Drying time is several days before reglazing glass and repainting.
• Power washing – One of the fastest paint removal methods is using pressursized water. Unless done by a skilled operator, this method can easily mar the soaked wood. Power washing also pushes water into the wood and significantly extends the drying time. This is a significant drawback for a long-lasting paint application. Incomplete drying of the wood is the most common reason for paint failure. Additionally, it can be difficult to contain the water and filter and contain the possibly toxic, paint chips.
• Hand or electric sanders and wood-shaving equipment – Using these tools is definitely faster and more time-efficient than using chemicals. However, quality results require experienced operators. The abrasive, fast moving blades can remove the paint unevenly, mar it, and irreparably damage the surface. Complete containment of the airborne dust and shavings with HEPA vacuums and complex containment areas are required in most states and can be costly. Without proper lead-safe work practices, workers, building occupants, and the surrounding environment are at high risk of dust contamination and lead poisoning.
• Traditional heat guns and open torches – Most of these hand-held heat devices require the surface paint to be heated to 1000° The area heated with each application is only 3”-5” and is not evenly heated. At this high temperature, wood is easily scorched and even burned. Deep sanding of the burn marks is another time-consuming step.  Pre-1978 paint likely has lead in it, which will be gassed off at this high temperature. Workers must wear organic vapor masks to protect themselves from fume inhalation. The risk of fire is high with these types of heat. Blowing hot air or torch flames easily ignite dust, spider webs, bird nests and other small, dry particles. The materials behind the heated wood are also heated using these high heat tools and can catch on fire many hours after the stripping is done and the workers have gone.

Our recommended method of stripping paint is the Speedheater™ Infrared (IR) Paint Remover. The Speedheater™ system is best in that it contains none of the risks associated with the methods listed above. The mid-length infrared rays safely and quickly heat paint to 400°F-600°F in 3-60 seconds, depending on the model of Infrared Paint Stripper you choose. At this low temperature, lead fumes are not released. The soft paint scrapings generate minimal dust and are easily contained. All thick paint or varnish layers are removed down to the bare wood in a few strokes with sharp, pull-type scrapers. The resulting wood surface is smooth, requires no sanding, washing, or drying time and is immediately ready for priming and painting.

UPDATED 5/21/25